Yesterday, I was put under for the third time in my life. At 23, three surgeries already seems like a bit much, but they are just so much fun, so I figure why hold back? Basically, some of my intestines were coming through a hole in the stomach lining, causing me lots of pain. I've had the issue for a while, but only recently was it starting to be bothersome. Anyway, its all patched up now.
I have about 3-4 weeks of recovery time before I can start climbing again. All things considered, its not the worst timing. Come Spring, Rumney will be beautiful and I'll be re-psyched and fit? That's the plan. Plus, I used all of yesterday and today to update Dark Horse media. I put up a bunch of dope photos, thanks to Pat Bagley's eye, and edited a short highlight reel of the last DH comp, courtesy of Keith Share's camera skills. UC mag is giving us a page for a write-up with photos, RockandIce is including us in their email blast, and Climbing will have a blurb on their online news section.
So all of this downtime may not be so bad after all. I can catch up on a few other things, and come back refreshed. On the downside, I will miss the Boston Rock Gym's Heart of Steel, which is certainly going to be crazier than last year. Props to them for providing something new and creative. Watching from the side-lines is going to be less than what I wanted, but at least I can add to the yelling.
Wednesday, December 23, 2009
Tuesday, December 22, 2009
Behind the Scenes...
Photos: Pat Bagley
The boys, Brian Rafferty MC Extraordinaire and Brett Australia, trying to relax before the big NUMBER TWO. This was taken at 2:30AM.
Me making the final tweaks on Men's Finals #4 around 2:00AM before the comp a few hours later. Tight! Setting for each comp has been a blast. Psyched every single one.
Me chillen with my fellow crushing Captain Neil Mushaweh during the plastic pulling madness. We are both lit, thinking "This crowd is impeding our ability to get to the keg." Photo: Brian Bittner
Kyle McCabe and I getting dirty.
The boys, Brian Rafferty MC Extraordinaire and Brett Australia, trying to relax before the big NUMBER TWO. This was taken at 2:30AM.
Me making the final tweaks on Men's Finals #4 around 2:00AM before the comp a few hours later. Tight! Setting for each comp has been a blast. Psyched every single one.
Me chillen with my fellow crushing Captain Neil Mushaweh during the plastic pulling madness. We are both lit, thinking "This crowd is impeding our ability to get to the keg." Photo: Brian Bittner
Kyle McCabe and I getting dirty.
Monday, December 21, 2009
Dark Horse: December 12, 2009
Continuing the recent progression of world class bouldering competitions in the NorthEast, MetroRock just finished the second stop of its four comp Dark Horse Series. On December 12th, over 200 competitors and spectators showed up from all over the country to compete for the Dark Horse title. The top five competitors in each Open category advanced to finals in the evening to battle over the $1,100 cash purse.
Francesca Metcalf ended up demolishing the Female Open field by finishing all but the last Finals problem, controlling half-pad crimps and pinches on the 45-degree wall like they were jugs. For men, the entire comp came down to the very last try for Rob D’Anastasio. Vasya Vorotnikov put the pressure on Rob D by flashing Finals #1, 3, and 4. However, Rob D stepped up his game by flashing all four problems, finishing with a shoulder-wrenching gaston crux for that nights Dark Horse title.
The series culminates into a heart-stopping Championship round where ten of the country's most vicious, blood-thirsty competitors battle for the top spot on March 27, 2010. With $8,300 up for grabs—the combined total for all four comps—this series is packing some serious heat.
Whether you’re a top pro competitor or an enthusiastic beginnger, this series has what you need for a good time. Don’t miss the remaining two; February 17th and the Championship ($5,000 cash purse) March 27th, 2010.
Go to DarkHorseSeries.com for more info…
1. Rob D’Anastasio
2. Vasya Vorotnikov
3. Julian Bautista
1. Francesca Metcalf
2. Melissa Godowski
3. Emma Chilton
Photographer: Pat Bagley
Thanks to everyone who showed up to have some fun. Thanks for destroying our kegs. Thanks for screaming and clapping. Thanks for being really, really strong. Thanks for looking good in photos. Thanks for be excited.
As always, we look forward to giving you an even bigger show next time. TRAIN! TRAIN! TRAIN!
Francesca Metcalf ended up demolishing the Female Open field by finishing all but the last Finals problem, controlling half-pad crimps and pinches on the 45-degree wall like they were jugs. For men, the entire comp came down to the very last try for Rob D’Anastasio. Vasya Vorotnikov put the pressure on Rob D by flashing Finals #1, 3, and 4. However, Rob D stepped up his game by flashing all four problems, finishing with a shoulder-wrenching gaston crux for that nights Dark Horse title.
The series culminates into a heart-stopping Championship round where ten of the country's most vicious, blood-thirsty competitors battle for the top spot on March 27, 2010. With $8,300 up for grabs—the combined total for all four comps—this series is packing some serious heat.
Whether you’re a top pro competitor or an enthusiastic beginnger, this series has what you need for a good time. Don’t miss the remaining two; February 17th and the Championship ($5,000 cash purse) March 27th, 2010.
Go to DarkHorseSeries.com for more info…
1. Rob D’Anastasio
2. Vasya Vorotnikov
3. Julian Bautista
1. Francesca Metcalf
2. Melissa Godowski
3. Emma Chilton
Photographer: Pat Bagley
Thanks to everyone who showed up to have some fun. Thanks for destroying our kegs. Thanks for screaming and clapping. Thanks for being really, really strong. Thanks for looking good in photos. Thanks for be excited.
As always, we look forward to giving you an even bigger show next time. TRAIN! TRAIN! TRAIN!
Thursday, December 17, 2009
Dark Horse: #2
Tuesday, December 08, 2009
Dark Horse: #2 Under Way
For the past 48 hours, Kyle McCabe and I have been setting our butts off; taking naps here and there and pressing on for the 3am tweaks. I love this stuff, and luckily I get to be working alongside one of the most experienced and talented routesetters in the industry. Brian Rafferty is also killing it for us. He is the master of the green boobs.
The Finals event is looking to be much bigger than last time. Vasya Vorotnikov is flying in from Delaware. Julian Boutista is flying in from California. Jimmy Webb is flying in from...well...some place down south. Brian Kim, Ty Landman, and Phil Schaal are all rumored to show up. Are you f'ing kidding me? That's all I have to say about that.
For girls, I'm not so sure, but if the Finals event is anything like it was last month, we are in for a good show. Francesca Metcalf, Emma Chilton, Sydney McNair, Nina Williams...all the freaks!
The Finals event is looking to be much bigger than last time. Vasya Vorotnikov is flying in from Delaware. Julian Boutista is flying in from California. Jimmy Webb is flying in from...well...some place down south. Brian Kim, Ty Landman, and Phil Schaal are all rumored to show up. Are you f'ing kidding me? That's all I have to say about that.
For girls, I'm not so sure, but if the Finals event is anything like it was last month, we are in for a good show. Francesca Metcalf, Emma Chilton, Sydney McNair, Nina Williams...all the freaks!
Thursday, November 19, 2009
First Dark Horse...
Dark Horse: November 14th, MetroRock North from David Wetmore on Vimeo.
Watch it in full screen if you can or just watch it on Vimeo. I'll have full problems up soon on the Dark Horse website. Getting psyched for Number Two in Everett. Great job everyone. Competitors were amazing.
Monday, November 16, 2009
Oh brother...
It's been about 4 full days since I last climbed and I'm starting to feel nice and fat. My brother's wedding weekend down in PA was absolutely ridiculous and I'm looking forward to resting some more before getting back into the swing of my normal routine. I haven't really slept at this point for about 4 days, so some quality Z's are needed.
The first Dark Horse seemed to go off without too many hitches. Happy to hear things went well. We had about 200 people come through the door. The Finals show was out of hand. Looking for the next one in Everett to be double that--at least.
Look out for photos coming soon with results. Plus, I'm working on cutting up a video of the day and night show. Yes sir. Love this stuff.
Feels weird not climbing for a few days. I kind of like it. Maybe I'll get a life soon.
Naht.
The first Dark Horse seemed to go off without too many hitches. Happy to hear things went well. We had about 200 people come through the door. The Finals show was out of hand. Looking for the next one in Everett to be double that--at least.
Look out for photos coming soon with results. Plus, I'm working on cutting up a video of the day and night show. Yes sir. Love this stuff.
Feels weird not climbing for a few days. I kind of like it. Maybe I'll get a life soon.
Naht.
Monday, November 09, 2009
Dark Horse: IN PROGRESS
First day of setting was bomb-diggity bomb dong. Male and Female Finals problems 1-4 are up and dialed waiting to be destroyed. Cannot wait for Saturday.
It's going to be an absolute shit show. Get psyched.
There is another great-green-giant-blob in the gym somewhere. Where is it? You'll have to come compete to find out. How clever.
It's going to be an absolute shit show. Get psyched.
There is another great-green-giant-blob in the gym somewhere. Where is it? You'll have to come compete to find out. How clever.
Thursday, November 05, 2009
Speed Climbing V15
Are you joking me? Midway through the clip, it looks like the guy is speed climbing and the cameraman has to run to keep up. Rad.
PRG: Midnight Burn
My first Midnight Burn was a good time. I thought the setting was done really well, especially in Finals. In fact, I'll probably copy a few moves for the Dark Horse comps. Register now!
But really, sick comp. All the big boys showed up; Rob D, Vasya, Boz, Brian Kim, Stephen Meinhold, and few others that I can't remember. It's always fun to compete against people that you know will most likely kick your ass, but if you try hard enough or they happen to have an off day, you might have a chance to squeak through and place. I ended up in 5th going into finals (there were 25 Open competitors) just ahead of Brian and about 100 points behind Vas, Rob D, and Boz.
Vasya Vorotnikov and Francesca Metcalf ended up on top of their Open categories. Awesome job; always impressed.
And thanks for making the drive Dad and working the camera. You da man.
Warming up before Finals...aka...texting mad babes.
But really, sick comp. All the big boys showed up; Rob D, Vasya, Boz, Brian Kim, Stephen Meinhold, and few others that I can't remember. It's always fun to compete against people that you know will most likely kick your ass, but if you try hard enough or they happen to have an off day, you might have a chance to squeak through and place. I ended up in 5th going into finals (there were 25 Open competitors) just ahead of Brian and about 100 points behind Vas, Rob D, and Boz.
Vasya Vorotnikov and Francesca Metcalf ended up on top of their Open categories. Awesome job; always impressed.
And thanks for making the drive Dad and working the camera. You da man.
Warming up before Finals...aka...texting mad babes.
Midnight Burn: Finals #2 from David Wetmore on Vimeo.
Midnight Burn: Finals #3 from David Wetmore on Vimeo.
Monday, October 26, 2009
Friday, October 23, 2009
Supernova is Done: Yippee-Doo!
Today was one of those rare days where everything finally fell into its place. I sent Supernova (5.14b) after slaving over it for months (from the low, real start; what Vasya would call "the start"). At the risk of sounding cliche, I have to say that standing on top of that 15 move power fest was one of the finest moments for me in climbing yet (best of all, I got to share it with my Dad who took off work for the day). And I'm looking forward to the next one, whether it be me or one of my friends, it's those seconds of pure joy that stand out the most.
So, ya, back to my super-epic, jaw-dropping story [For all of you serious crushers out there, the preceding verbiage is known as sarcasm]. A little while later, Neil and I walked up the hill to give They Died Surfing (5.13d) a shot. Despite its looks, it climbs really well and I ended up sending in a few tries. I was just as surprised as the lil' stupid chipmunk that kept running by with acorns stuffed in its face.
Neil, the beast master, regained his confidence on Steady Slobbin (5.14b) by matching the gold-fish for a second; almost breaking through to the top. He'll have it next try. Below is one of the most inspiring pieces of climbing I have witnessed to date. Just after falling off the gold-fish, he boinked back up and was hell bent on a solid one hang. When he wants to get something done, he does.
"My pinky hurts like hell, but I'm going to one-hang this," Neil said as he dug his pinky once more into the lock, which he ended up tearing to shreds, despite finishing the burn in good form. [Side note: He cranked so hard on the top of They Died Surfing later in the day that he ripped two tips wide open, gushing blood like...well...two tips that have been ripped wide open]. Anyway, check this shit out...
The rest of the photos are, well, whatever. Psyched!
So, ya, back to my super-epic, jaw-dropping story [For all of you serious crushers out there, the preceding verbiage is known as sarcasm]. A little while later, Neil and I walked up the hill to give They Died Surfing (5.13d) a shot. Despite its looks, it climbs really well and I ended up sending in a few tries. I was just as surprised as the lil' stupid chipmunk that kept running by with acorns stuffed in its face.
Neil, the beast master, regained his confidence on Steady Slobbin (5.14b) by matching the gold-fish for a second; almost breaking through to the top. He'll have it next try. Below is one of the most inspiring pieces of climbing I have witnessed to date. Just after falling off the gold-fish, he boinked back up and was hell bent on a solid one hang. When he wants to get something done, he does.
"My pinky hurts like hell, but I'm going to one-hang this," Neil said as he dug his pinky once more into the lock, which he ended up tearing to shreds, despite finishing the burn in good form. [Side note: He cranked so hard on the top of They Died Surfing later in the day that he ripped two tips wide open, gushing blood like...well...two tips that have been ripped wide open]. Anyway, check this shit out...
Neil Mushaweh: Steady Slobbin from David Wetmore on Vimeo.
The rest of the photos are, well, whatever. Psyched!
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