Wednesday, March 31, 2010

Dark Horse Championship
















Last weekend marked the Finale of the Dark Horse Series (darkhorseseries.com) at MetroRock in Boston, MA, where FiveTen athlete Michael Bautista came in Third (competing in a stacked field with Rob D, Vasya, Brian Kim, Stephen Meinhold, Max Zolotukhin, and many others) while newly joined FiveTen Athlete Francesca Metcalf won the whole caboodle with another FiveTen-er, Nina Williams, trailing closely behind in Second. Normally, these are the kinds of NorthEast comps I love to compete in; however, for this series I had the opportunity to serve as the Head Setter--a new perspective for me.

And I have to say, I don't know what is more exciting: watching all these talented, honed competitors pull on the problems you designed with your setting team over the course of 5 days (Thanks Kyle McCabe--you machine) and hoping everything works as planned, or actually competing in the event. Surprisingly, I feel much more pressure as a setter than I do as a climber, mostly because I don't want to look like a ding-dong if the top three competitors tied or if no one finished any of the problems. In the same way, competing can be equally nerve-wracking if you're worried about looking good in front of loads of spectators waiting for their entertainment. Fortunately, the show came down to the last Finals Problem in each category, exactly what we wanted. More photos, thoughts, and video coming soon at meaning2memorize.com.

Great job Michael, Francesca, and Nina--and too everyone else who tried HARD on Saturday. Had a blast and can't wait for next year.




Monday, March 08, 2010

Power Struggle: Prime Climb















Just when you think the comp season is over for bouldering, another event emerges from the hidden, darkened corners of places you wouldn't guess had climbing. Last weekend, it happened to be at Prime Climb down in Connecticut--a smoothly run comp with a three problem Finals Round. Competing on plastic is one of my favorite forms of climbing, which I guess deems me a dirty gym rat, but what makes it meaningful and interesting is when your up against good friends (read: Arch Enemies). As always, Vasya Vorotnikov, was there to fight (climb) with. We went head to head in
Finals after finishing up very close in qualifiers.





























I love those nasty little Dragons on the steep problems--you can dig in very hard on almost anything.

Anyway, he crushed all three Finals for the win, an outcome you could say I've gotten used to over the years, while I placed a close Second behind him, finishing up Problem #1, and falling two holds from the top on #2 and #3. Nice work broseph.






























Thanks for the pics and support Dad!

Despite the numbers and ranks, I'm feeling the healthiest I've ever been (knock on wood) and look forward to the coming weeks--first stop of the UBC Pro Tour at Earth Treks in Timonium--right after a quick five days in the Red--and a slew of boulders before then. Hoping that Neil Mushaweh, my fellow rock sniper, and I can take them down. Speed of Life this Friday! Fingers crossed on the constantly changing weather cycles we have out here in New England. Looking perfect right now though...

Monday, March 01, 2010

New England's Premiere Bouldering Series: Dark Horse Round Three
















Mike Foley wishing the slopers were crimps on Finals #2. The kid is a machine.


After what seemed like a hundred hours of setting and preparation, Saturday came barreling down the rails without fail and despite the deceiving weather, we had a fantabulous turnout. Little rock-star kids of the future threw themselves at micro-crimps like they were handle bars, an older crowd of masters proved to everyone that their steel-reinforced fingers still somehow worked, and a few ridiculous mutant-fied dingdongs pulled their way into Finals--a show that always brings a smile to my face even bigger than the Grinch's grin after he steals little Cindy Lou Hoo's Christmas tree.

The crowd was as loud as ever too, but that may have been entirely due to the fact that they housed both of our kegs within an hour. I'm hoping it was the sick Finals competitors and bomb proof problems though too! Well done.






















I was trying to make it look purty.

Thanks to everyone who helped us pull this event off for the third time. What remains? The Dark Horse Championship: March 26 and 27, weighing in with a $5,000 cash purse for Pro Competitors and loaded with even more prizes for the Novice, Intermediate, Advances, Masters, and Junior categories. Holy bajeezers, it's going to be the real deal folks.

Open Results:
1. Vasya Vorotnikov
2. Mike Foley
3. Connor "Big Mac" MacDonald

1. Francesca Metcalf
2. Nina Williams
3. Emma Chilton

Video of this last comp is in the making! Many more photos to come as well. Full results down lower. See you all in a few weeks for the Finale!
















Nina Williams, FiveTen Athlete, making dust out of the caves tufa feature on Finals #3.






















Good thing I don't look tired from the 70-hours of setting and forerunning.
















Mike Foley and I enjoying the plastic comp life. I love this stuff--you too Mike Foley. What?

















Mike Dondero amidst a sea of his own thoughts--and holds. Credit: Sean Harris

















I don't know his name, but he is 6-years-old and absolutely unbelievable to watch climb. He is the future. His name is FUTURE. Credit: Sean Harris

















Max "Boot-strap" Zolotukhin climbing his way into Finals. You're an animal and something else that I cannot say on this blog for fear that I'd get fired. Credit: Sean Harris

















Melissa Godowksi's hand on a sloper. What an artsy-fartsy photo! Naht. Credit: Sean Harris
















Neil Mushaweh "total destruction". Credit: Sean Harris


Results:

Open
Male:
1. Vasya Vorotnikov
2. Mike Foley
3. Connor MacDonald

Female:
1. Francesca Mecalf
2. Nina Williams
3. Emma Chilton

Advanced
Male:
1. Steve Patrick
2. Evan Paigle
3. Jon Haggerty

Female:
1. Robin Berk
2. Cora Harvey
3. Katie Bond

Intermediate
Male:
1. Alex Stange
2. Matt Shreve
3. John Felch

Female:
1. Aly Nesson
2. Caitlin Rivers
3. Talia Jaffe

Novice
Male:
1. Robin Chase
2. Jeremy Haber
3. Josh Locks

Female:
1. Emma Burgh
2. Kathryn Hansis
3. Barbara O' Connell

Junior
Male:
1. Mark Olchanyi
2. Evan Daniels
3. P-Funk

Masters
Male:
1. Alex Chenvainu

Female:
1. Kristi Chenvainu