Friday, October 17, 2008
Rumney: Monsters of the Id
Put a 55 degree day together at Rumney with a slight wind and nothing but blue skies, and what do you get? Sending! Today marked the best few hours of sport climbing for me this season. I warmed up at Waimea. My first climb was Waimea (5.10) and my second climb was TechnoSurfing (5.12b), one of my favorite lines on the wall because of the massive dyno at the top that you can either choose to by-pass or launch. I always launch and its more fun every time.
After taking my laps, we headed down to Monsters to seek and destroy. I sent Dr.No (5.13d) first try of the day! I am now the third person to have used the massive, chuck beta at the top--skipping the entire midsection with one big move to a sloper and subsequent bicycle down below to establish on the last few holds.
I rested about 30 minutes and pulled onto Feeding Frenzy (5.13d) and ended up sending first go! It was just one of those days where every hold feels amazing. Thanks temps!
Below is another picture of the crux on Feeding Frenzy.
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