On Friday I ended up heading out to Pawtuckaway for some bouldering. The conditions weren't as crispy as I was hoping for, but nonetheless, it was beautiful day. The Fall climbing season out here in New England is hard to beat. After a few warm-ups, I started working the sit to Three Amigos, a solid Northeast V11 to the left of Halcyon. With just one pad and no spotters, the top out can be a bit sketchy, but since I have done the top out for what feels like a bagillion times at this point, in the dark and when it has been wet from working Halcyon, it didn't feel to bad. I ended up sending in a few goes and decided to work Confident Man (V12) just a bit further to the left, the last problem on the boulder that I have left to do. Oh and by the way, if anyone has never been to Boulder Natural, I strongly recommend coming here; the best bouldering available at Pawtuckaway in my opinion in terms of hard problems with solid holds and high top outs.
Anyway, I put in some time on Confident Manand ended up getting shut down pretty hard. Tiny crimps and big moves don't usually suit my style , but I really want this problem. Soon? We'll see.
With no time to waste, I hiked on up to Devil's Den with Vasya and Neil and did a couple of quick problems to finish off the day, Up in Smoke (V7) and Great Big Ocean (V8), a weird little problem that involves basically humping your way up the wall. Super. On the way out, I took a lap on one of my all time favorite problems in the park, and gem to many who come this way, Ride the Lightening (V6), a sloping top out problem about 15-20 feet above the pads. I fell on it for the first time in about 20 laps! I had forgotten how far you come down, but since the landing is completely flat, it's perfectly safe. I redeemed myself, and strolled back on out to the Horse Farms to hop in my truck and head home.
Monday, October 13, 2008
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