Parallel Universe: Monsters of the Id

Once again the rock was about as sticky as sandpaper glued to the left cheek of your face and the trees looked like they were about to burst into flames (read: fall foliage). Mike Patz and I took our usual laps at Waimea and cruised on down to Monsters today. With just a few more routes left to do there, Parallel Universe (5.14a) is next on the list and today went well. With the help of Mike's "magic-trick" beta, I had a solid one-hang attempt at the end of the day. Hopefully, this week it will succumb to my flailing.

Mike Foley sent Livin' Astro (5.14c) a few days ago, along with Max Zolotukhin sending Supernova(5.14b). Congrats! Those guys are killin' it.

Tomorrow I'll be running around Pawtuckaway with the MetroRock climbing team. That is if I actually rouse from Halloween's debaucherous (a word?) inflictions. I will. The boulders need some pulling after a long night all alone. That statement could go in either direction. You get to pick!

Anyway, with some luck Pawtuckaway will be as friendly as it was last week when I sent Domepiece (V10), a powerful, one-move problem to a sloping lip of a top-out. Some fatty (me?) broke the only foot on it, so it may be harder now...like "V-a million" probably.

Next update, Parallel will be sent. That route is so much fun to climb on that it should almost be made illegal, but not really. Right. Ok, good talk.

Rumney: Monsters of the Id

Put a 55 degree day together at Rumney with a slight wind and nothing but blue skies, and what do you get? Sending! Today marked the best few hours of sport climbing for me this season. I warmed up at Waimea. My first climb was Waimea (5.10) and my second climb was TechnoSurfing (5.12b), one of my favorite lines on the wall because of the massive dyno at the top that you can either choose to by-pass or launch. I always launch and its more fun every time.

After taking my laps, we headed down to Monsters to seek and destroy. I sent Dr.No (5.13d) first try of the day! I am now the third person to have used the massive, chuck beta at the top--skipping the entire midsection with one big move to a sloper and subsequent bicycle down below to establish on the last few holds.

I rested about 30 minutes and pulled onto Feeding Frenzy (5.13d) and ended up sending first go! It was just one of those days where every hold feels amazing. Thanks temps!

Below is another picture of the crux on Feeding Frenzy.

Crush-It: MetroNorth

And so a long week begins of setting for the upcoming Crush-It Series Comp at MetroRock North. You all better be there this Saturday! Details to come.

Boston Rock Gym Plastic Pulling: ABS Comp

On Saturday, the day after a project send in Pawtuckaway, I was ready my first ABS comp of the year. Some very strong and talented climbers put in a lot of effort to set, Max and Gavin that I know of at least, so the comp ended up a success all around. I ended up in 1st for the Male: Open category just ahead of Brian Bittner, while Francesca Metcalf took 1st for Female: Open, one of the MetroRock team members that I have the opportunity to help train. She is ridiculously strong at just 15 and I can't wait to see what she pulls off this year.

The best part of the comp though, other than feeling the good ole' plastic bug creep back into my veins, was catching up with Brian Bittner. Turns out we are at the same point in our lives where we are basically doing just two things: climbing and working to climb. I told him my plans about climbing in Hueco for a month before the ABS National Bouldering Championships, and he is doing the exact same kind of timed training, but in Boone. Since we are both on the same page, I am just going to head down there in January, freeze my ass off, and hopefully get a little bit stronger before Nationals so that I don't get crushed by all the freaks out West. Ha!
I also told him about my plans to go to Vietnam/Thailand/Ha Long Bay next year and turns out he was thinking the same thing and knows the guy who heads the guiding association out there! So, all and all, I am more psyched then ever to train, since Brian is the man and it should be fun to work together on the same goals. This year is definitely shaping up to be interesting--granted I don't get injured like I always do. POSITIVE THOUGHTS! NO INJURIES! Pray to the rock gods. A'men.

Pawtuckaway: Mission Fall Foliage

On Friday I ended up heading out to Pawtuckaway for some bouldering. The conditions weren't as crispy as I was hoping for, but nonetheless, it was beautiful day. The Fall climbing season out here in New England is hard to beat. After a few warm-ups, I started working the sit to Three Amigos, a solid Northeast V11 to the left of Halcyon. With just one pad and no spotters, the top out can be a bit sketchy, but since I have done the top out for what feels like a bagillion times at this point, in the dark and when it has been wet from working Halcyon, it didn't feel to bad. I ended up sending in a few goes and decided to work Confident Man (V12) just a bit further to the left, the last problem on the boulder that I have left to do. Oh and by the way, if anyone has never been to Boulder Natural, I strongly recommend coming here; the best bouldering available at Pawtuckaway in my opinion in terms of hard problems with solid holds and high top outs.

Anyway, I put in some time on Confident Manand ended up getting shut down pretty hard. Tiny crimps and big moves don't usually suit my style , but I really want this problem. Soon? We'll see.

With no time to waste, I hiked on up to Devil's Den with Vasya and Neil and did a couple of quick problems to finish off the day, Up in Smoke (V7) and Great Big Ocean (V8), a weird little problem that involves basically humping your way up the wall. Super. On the way out, I took a lap on one of my all time favorite problems in the park, and gem to many who come this way, Ride the Lightening (V6), a sloping top out problem about 15-20 feet above the pads. I fell on it for the first time in about 20 laps! I had forgotten how far you come down, but since the landing is completely flat, it's perfectly safe. I redeemed myself, and strolled back on out to the Horse Farms to hop in my truck and head home.