meaning2memorize: Back from the Gramps and East Coast Crushing

So, it's been a while since I last updated, but for good reason. I was in Australia for about four weeks climbing in the Grampians and the week I set foot back in the States, I spent seven days at Carabiner's setting for USA climbing's regional championships by day and sleeping on their blue-matted floor by night.

Without a minute to waste, just one day after the comp, I was put under general anesthesia for a septoplasty surgery. Long story short, the surgeon took a hammer and chisel to my nose and fixed it so that I could breathe again. After three broken noses--a result of climbing accidents, one fight, and hockey--my already severely deviated septum had rendered me incapable of breathing out of both nostrils. At any rate, when I woke from surgery, I was puking up blood for hours while the nurse pumped my veins full of morphine and demoral.

The good news is that I am finally back into the swing of climbing. After two weeks of pain killers and rest, spending the day up at Rumney on Saturday felt like Christmas morning, save the fact that the forest was more humid than a drug-peddling jungle in Columbia and there was no Santa. Regardless of the wetness, my first climbing day back on the east coast was stellar. I worked on Supernova (5.14b), Dodge the Lemons (5.13d), and Boogie Man (5.13b), all of which felt really good. Very psyched. Hoping Dodge the Lemons and Boogie Man go down this weekend. Progress on Supernova please? One-hang? Maybe if I don't eat like a fat-ass this week.

Anyway, this whole route climbing kick has absolutely taken over my entire mindset, which is profound for me considering all I have ever thought about is competitions and boulders. At this point, nothing compares to rope climbing. I never thought I'd say that.

This is me looking goofy after accidentally punching myself in the face off an under-cling at the top of Supernova. Note: Don't punch yourself in the nose after a septoplasty--it hurts.

Working the bottom section off Supernova (5.14b)

Looks like I'm flailing on the final crux. Sick.

Rumney is being absolutely lit up these days with strong sport climbers. Keller Rinuado, recently graduated from Harvard and about two embark on a three month climbing trip through Europe, sent China Beach (5.14b) last week [LEFT]. The mutant also dispatched Parallel Universe (5.14a) within the next few days. He has only been climbing three years and is a route climbing assassin.

Here are some pictures from the Australia trip:

Josh Grose on Wild Orchids at Mauline (5.13d)

They Aussies dubbed Mike Patz and I: TEAM AMERICA.

One of the blokes we met, Alister, jumping off the top of the Taipan Wall.

The only picture of me in Australia--dogging on Wild Orchids. Such an amazing route. After 2 days of effort, I almost sent, but fell off the final crux throw to a jug. Maybe next time? Naht.