Do. Work.

Fichael telling me to Do.Work. "That's real talk." When's the next HOS?

5.10: Rumney Demo

Despite the weather--wet, humid, and mosquito invested--people showed up to climb. The Calm Post and Joanne from the Rattlesnake campgrounds were kind enough to let me use their property for the day, so thank you and we'll be back soon.

Hope everyone enjoyed their shoes. And thanks for bringing them back!


Demo via: My truck.






















Painted toe on the Projects.


Mmmmmmmmm...

Rumney: The Month of Rain

After spending a 60+ hour week in the gym setting for SCS Divisionals at MetroRock, which went off quite swimmingly, I was foaming at the mouth for some rock climbing. Fortunately, we've been graced with two solid weeks of rain, which means--just like last season--the start of the summer is fated to be spent on plastic (for a bit at least). Last year, I have to admit that I probably would have been excited that it was raining because it would inevitably mean more training inside. But I'm not sure, something clicked in Australia and all I want to do now is get on rock. It's a good feeling to know exactly what you want, especially when injuries are minimal, motivation is high, and the energy from your friends is positive.

Despite the rain and my introspective blabbering above, we've (Neil Mushaweh, Mike Foley, and Vasya Vorotnikov) made it out for a few days here and there. Making a guest appearance, my Dad put on the ole' boots and hiked up for a day to watch us fumble around on wet rock. I'm glad he made it out. And if there is an upside to less-than-ideal weather like this it is the subsequent bug control. Thankfully, the mosquitoes and black flies descend back into the hellish depths from which they came for a few hours after each storm, leaving us a short window of relatively blood-sucker free climbing.

Rain considered, climbing hasn't been half bad. Mr. Fichael (Mike Foley) came close to destroying The Style that is Free (hard 14) second try, but failed because he is too skinny as a result of not eating enough burgers. I made my best link on Supernova (14b), so I'm hoping that when we get a dry day, the route shall be dispatched. Needless to say, I check weather.com and noaa.com about five times a day. Sun? Naht.

Utah! I leave on June 8th and return June 23. SCS Nationals then routes in Logan, maybe some bouldering at Joe's if we don't burn our hands off, then some Mammut Bouldering Championships (setting or competing--not sure yet) and then OR show. Psyched.

Music: GMS, Code 64, Assemblage 22, Dialect. Flipping flapjacks that stuff is rad.



Warming up. Man Overboard.







Can't wait for a dry day. Supernova.






















Cruxing. Favorite move at Rumney so far.

Another Day at the Office

So, I gave myself one day of rest after the knee-popping incident because I have to set a bunch of routes for the Divisional Championships. To compensate for the knee, I've been awkwardly straining the ole' back, which has led to another problem--nothing a little ice and ibuprofen can't wipe away. Right.



Anyway, hopefully everyone's hard work pays off and we can put on a good comp before the kids shove off to Nationals. Can't wait to see all the young crushers kill it this weekend.

Pop Goes the Weas....My knee

This will be short because I'm pissed. Last night I was training with Vasya and Justin when my knee went snap, crackle, pop. One massive heel hook and kaboom, I was on the ground. A few years ago, I heard the same sound in my right knee and I was able to walk within a few days, so hopefully the injury is the same and nothing detached itself from my leg. Until then, I'll be hopping around on crutches that I've saved up from past occasions. Awesome.

Hotel: Toyota Tacoma

Where I'll be staying for the majority of the summer...




Psyched for the New River Gorge with Vasya in August. Even though plans seem to change within the climbing world quicker than I can fill up my tank with $60 bucks of gas due to the fact that climbers are more or less fickle people as I have come to learn from one particular joyous occasion, I am hoping this one sticks. Wow, that sounds bitter! Until then...RUMNEY, RUMNEY, RUMNEY.

Back from the Gramps and East Coast Crushing

So, it's been a while since I last updated, but for good reason. I was in Australia for about four weeks climbing in the Grampians and the week I set foot back in the States, I spent seven days at Carabiner's setting for USA climbing's regional championships by day and sleeping on their blue-matted floor by night.

Without a minute to waste, just one day after the comp, I was put under general anesthesia for a septoplasty surgery. Long story short, the surgeon took a hammer and chisel to my nose and fixed it so that I could breathe again. After three broken noses--a result of climbing accidents, one fight, and hockey--my already severely deviated septum had rendered me incapable of breathing out of both nostrils. At any rate, when I woke from surgery, I was puking up blood for hours while the nurse pumped my veins full of morphine and demoral.

The good news is that I am finally back into the swing of climbing. After two weeks of pain killers and rest, spending the day up at Rumney on Saturday felt like Christmas morning, save the fact that the forest was more humid than a drug-peddling jungle in Columbia and there was no Santa. Regardless of the wetness, my first climbing day back on the east coast was stellar. I worked on Supernova (5.14b), Dodge the Lemons (5.13d), and Boogie Man (5.13b), all of which felt really good. Very psyched. Hoping Dodge the Lemons and Boogie Man go down this weekend. Progress on Supernova please? One-hang? Maybe if I don't eat like a fat-ass this week.

Anyway, this whole route climbing kick has absolutely taken over my entire mindset, which is profound for me considering all I have ever thought about is competitions and boulders. At this point, nothing compares to rope climbing. I never thought I'd say that.























This is me looking goofy after accidentally punching myself in the face off an under-cling at the top of Supernova. Note: Don't punch yourself in the nose after a septoplasty--it hurts.















Working the bottom section off Supernova (5.14b)















Looks like I'm flailing on the final crux. Sick.

Rumney is being absolutely lit up these days with strong sport climbers. Keller Rinuado, recently graduated from Harvard and about two embark on a three month climbing trip through Europe, sent China Beach (5.14b) last week [LEFT]. The mutant also dispatched Parallel Universe (5.14a) within the next few days. He has only been climbing three years and is a route climbing assassin.

Here are some pictures from the Australia trip:






















Josh Grose on Wild Orchids at Mauline (5.13d)



They Aussies dubbed Mike Patz and I: TEAM AMERICA.



One of the blokes we met, Alister, jumping off the top of the Taipan Wall.



The only picture of me in Australia--dogging on Wild Orchids. Such an amazing route. After 2 days of effort, I almost sent, but fell off the final crux throw to a jug. Maybe next time? Naht.



They thought I looked like Big Foot. Ya, thanks.



Dave "Wenuts" AkA The Hulk according to the Aussies we stayed with.






















Mike Patz sending Breathing Gasoline (5.13d)













Same route.