Supernova: Dave Wetmore from David Wetmore on Vimeo.
Monday, October 26, 2009
Friday, October 23, 2009
Supernova is Done: Yippee-Doo!
Today was one of those rare days where everything finally fell into its place. I sent Supernova (5.14b) after slaving over it for months (from the low, real start; what Vasya would call "the start"). At the risk of sounding cliche, I have to say that standing on top of that 15 move power fest was one of the finest moments for me in climbing yet (best of all, I got to share it with my Dad who took off work for the day). And I'm looking forward to the next one, whether it be me or one of my friends, it's those seconds of pure joy that stand out the most.
So, ya, back to my super-epic, jaw-dropping story [For all of you serious crushers out there, the preceding verbiage is known as sarcasm]. A little while later, Neil and I walked up the hill to give They Died Surfing (5.13d) a shot. Despite its looks, it climbs really well and I ended up sending in a few tries. I was just as surprised as the lil' stupid chipmunk that kept running by with acorns stuffed in its face.
Neil, the beast master, regained his confidence on Steady Slobbin (5.14b) by matching the gold-fish for a second; almost breaking through to the top. He'll have it next try. Below is one of the most inspiring pieces of climbing I have witnessed to date. Just after falling off the gold-fish, he boinked back up and was hell bent on a solid one hang. When he wants to get something done, he does.
"My pinky hurts like hell, but I'm going to one-hang this," Neil said as he dug his pinky once more into the lock, which he ended up tearing to shreds, despite finishing the burn in good form. [Side note: He cranked so hard on the top of They Died Surfing later in the day that he ripped two tips wide open, gushing blood like...well...two tips that have been ripped wide open]. Anyway, check this shit out...
The rest of the photos are, well, whatever. Psyched!
So, ya, back to my super-epic, jaw-dropping story [For all of you serious crushers out there, the preceding verbiage is known as sarcasm]. A little while later, Neil and I walked up the hill to give They Died Surfing (5.13d) a shot. Despite its looks, it climbs really well and I ended up sending in a few tries. I was just as surprised as the lil' stupid chipmunk that kept running by with acorns stuffed in its face.
Neil, the beast master, regained his confidence on Steady Slobbin (5.14b) by matching the gold-fish for a second; almost breaking through to the top. He'll have it next try. Below is one of the most inspiring pieces of climbing I have witnessed to date. Just after falling off the gold-fish, he boinked back up and was hell bent on a solid one hang. When he wants to get something done, he does.
"My pinky hurts like hell, but I'm going to one-hang this," Neil said as he dug his pinky once more into the lock, which he ended up tearing to shreds, despite finishing the burn in good form. [Side note: He cranked so hard on the top of They Died Surfing later in the day that he ripped two tips wide open, gushing blood like...well...two tips that have been ripped wide open]. Anyway, check this shit out...
Neil Mushaweh: Steady Slobbin from David Wetmore on Vimeo.
The rest of the photos are, well, whatever. Psyched!
Wednesday, October 21, 2009
A Good Way to Promote the Sport...
Andrew Bisharat wrote in the most recent issue of Rock and Ice, "Of course, I love climbing and its many positive and uplifting things. But like most climbers I know, I don't think this way. There are too many good things in climbing worth hating: boastful spray lords who are so plainly compensating for their other "inadequacies," still-virgin gear junkies, haughty alpinists and their unrealized homosexual tendencies, those poor and uncoordinated gumbies, and, of course, the audacity of pro climbers who think that just because they climb hard, other people should give a shit about them and companies should pay for their self-indulgent lives. The list goes on and on."
Wow. For right now, my writing needs to be limited because I am at work, but holy fuck. Is this not the most negative, bitter old-man, sorry-sounding shit you've ever heard? Jesus H. Christ. First of all, if having a fun blog to help promote the companies that support you, as well as providing a creative outlet for media that involves friends and family; the climbers invested within your microcosmic climbing community, then I suppose I'll lump myself in with the grotesquely self-indulgent before being called one.
If it wasn't for the supposed self-indulgent pro climber community (yes, some are, but some actually love what they do and help out in positive ways), would there even be climbing media? Like say...Rock and Ice? Isn't getting a picture taken of yourself, or having a column, inherently self-indulgent to begin with? People are negative enough about one another in this sport everyday, so why must some of the most read (dare I say influential) authors in print media be so overly and perpetually cynical?
But then again, why would you want to promote the sport in a positive light when those who spend everyday working at it and are good at it--the one's you hate--could possibly benefit from monetary gains via increased media attention? Well, you wouldn't.
This is all just for fun. Actually, this little piece of the article reminded me that we are just climbing rocks; it's always a sobering thought. And yes, traveling the world to climb rocks for--yours truly--is certainly self-indulgent. But for right now, why not? Cheers.
Wow. For right now, my writing needs to be limited because I am at work, but holy fuck. Is this not the most negative, bitter old-man, sorry-sounding shit you've ever heard? Jesus H. Christ. First of all, if having a fun blog to help promote the companies that support you, as well as providing a creative outlet for media that involves friends and family; the climbers invested within your microcosmic climbing community, then I suppose I'll lump myself in with the grotesquely self-indulgent before being called one.
If it wasn't for the supposed self-indulgent pro climber community (yes, some are, but some actually love what they do and help out in positive ways), would there even be climbing media? Like say...Rock and Ice? Isn't getting a picture taken of yourself, or having a column, inherently self-indulgent to begin with? People are negative enough about one another in this sport everyday, so why must some of the most read (dare I say influential) authors in print media be so overly and perpetually cynical?
But then again, why would you want to promote the sport in a positive light when those who spend everyday working at it and are good at it--the one's you hate--could possibly benefit from monetary gains via increased media attention? Well, you wouldn't.
This is all just for fun. Actually, this little piece of the article reminded me that we are just climbing rocks; it's always a sobering thought. And yes, traveling the world to climb rocks for--yours truly--is certainly self-indulgent. But for right now, why not? Cheers.
Monday, October 19, 2009
Fuck.
Still not feeling good about what happened on Saturday. Wishing the best for Max's recovery. Those images will be ingrained in my head forever. I'll write about what went on and what I learned from Max's accident at a later time.
Not a fun day for anyone involved, but certainly worth something in the ever-deepening vault of experience.
Not a fun day for anyone involved, but certainly worth something in the ever-deepening vault of experience.
Saturday, October 17, 2009
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
A Chill Day at Pawtuckaway
Word of the day. Bucolic.
Alex Enright tries HARD.
So very hard.
But. No send. This problem is called EL DOPEMAN.
Some videos are coming soon. Oh boy, you're gonna love em!
In other news, Nate Draughn is hilarious. http://natedraughn.louderthan11.com/
Tuesday, October 06, 2009
Triple Crown 2009: Hound Ears
The first leg of the Triple Crown Bouldering Series was unexpectedly one of the funnest days of small-pebble wrassling I've had to date. Thanks for sending me FiveTen. Climbing in a new area with great friends on a perfect Fall day doesn't get much better. The style of climbing suited me pretty well too--steep powerful movements on incut crimps. Its hard to pick a favorite for the day, but if I had to, my top three would be Stupid Human, The Crusher, and whatever the long, traversing one was where Phil--my savior for the finish--pointed out the last five holds for me when I was pumped out of my dome. Thanks.
Climbing with Phil, or just being around the kid, is generally hilarious. "I've never been betrayed like this--ever," he commented about his skin early in the day, which set the tone for the rest of the afternoon. He suffered bad, but that's what you get for circuiting V12 in RMNP just one day before. Dingleberry. Nonetheless, he climbed as strong as always.
Maximus Zolotukhin, on his 9th tour of Hound Ears, had an impressive day as well, hiking pretty much all the hard classics and nabbing a stout repeat of Random Man, a three move problem that had not been repeated since James Litz' FA eight years prior.
In the end, Jimmy Webb, the local crushing monster, took first in front of Brion Voges, who established an FA for the day to the left of the Crusher called Half Price Pornos (probably the best name in climbing...ever). Max finished third, taking away $200. Rad. I ended up 5th for the day just behind Phil, who just just repeated Jade (V15) a few weeks ago. There were over 300 competitors at the event; hopefully, next year is even bigger.
Anyway, I hope you enjoy the video as much as I enjoyed watching Phil have a temper-tantrum. Horse Pens next!
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