I was out in Boulder, Colorado, for ABS Nationals two weeks ago competing against about 100 top climbers in the country for 15 spots in Finals. I was sick the day of Qualifiers, but still feeling reasonably fit after just coming off a second-place finish at the Boston Rock Gym's Heart of Steel Comp. Long story short--I got destroyed. Even climbers like Matt Bosley and Steve Jeffrey were shut out. The climbers that made finals, for the most part, were full-time professionals, save Max Zolotkhin who climbed super-strong and ended up wearing a pink one-piece spandex unitard for Finals. Watching these elites move was like watching futuristic robots glide up the wall as if gravity were flipped in reverse.
This experience though has motivated myself and Vasya Vorotnikov, a 5.15 climber who also had problems at the comp, to train at a whole new level. We asked ourselves a key question: What exactly is holding us back? It's quite simple. Based on a sheer statistical level, our weight far exceeds that of the prototypical phenom. If you look at every male competitor in finals, no one weighed over 150 and most ranged from 130-140. I weigh about 168 and Vasya weighs about 165. We are fat-asses in comparison.
Without much fat too loose, we have begun running everyday, including the bike, eliptical, and whatever other spinning contraption you can find at the local gym. On top of that, I bought a weight-vest to wear every time I climb, only taking it off outdoors or at comps. For every pound we lose training and dieting, we add a pound in the vest. I have cheated a few times, not wearing the vest because my shoulder was bothering me, but other than that it seems to be working.
Outside of competing at Nationals and local level comps, I was recently promoted to Assistant Head Coach at MetroRock and have gained a few more private clients. This means more money, which means more climbing, and progression. After a long season indoors, the weather is starting to warm-up and I am looking forward to getting back outside towards Rumney, Great Barrington, and Farley this March.
Next week I am flying down to Horse Pens in Alabama with 6 kids from the team to boulder. Psyched! Hopefully, there will be lots of sending for all.
After what will hopefully be a good spring session this month, I will be jetting off to Australia for a month for some big wall climbing, bouldering, and sport in the Blue Mountains with Mike Patz. I'll be sure to update with photos and some writing while I'm there.
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