...Silent killer, Brian Kim, walks one of Rumney’s hardest routes, China Beach ...
...Granite crushing monster, Vasya Vorotnikov, comes closer to finishing Jaws ...
Brian Kim, an accomplished trad and sport climber, displayed his unparalleled precision and exceedingly composed style of climbing while creeping up Rumney’s China Beach last week. The route is rated 5.14b, but Brian’s absurdly nonchalant climbing made it look like 5.8. Deliberate movement. Seamless upward momentum. Soft, quiet foot placements. An impenetrable façade of a tranquil, yet fiercely intense focus. He is constantly emanating a fascinatingly cool demeanor. This is Brian Kim floating to the finish, slithering through the tendon-tearing, body-torching moves of China Beach. What is next on the list?
On the opposite end of the style spectrum is the iron reinforced, muscle-machine, Vasya Vorotnikov, proving that technique is no substitute for power. One hanging a probable 5.15a, Jaws, Vorotnikov demonstrates the antithesis of Kim’s casual, calculated form of climbing, ferociously tearing into crimps with unrelenting determination. Matched with flawless technique and world-class endurance, his movements are dynamic and forceful; however, beneath this hardened shell is a contemplative, keen observer. What is his secret?
In order to fully answer these questions, it is imperative to dig into the personality of the two young guns. Interestingly enough, each individual’s character and mode of social engagement directly mirror their actual climbing style. Brian Kim, as you might know if you have ever spoken with him, says nothing more than needed and nothing less. Pragmatic and overly mundane, this soft-spoken mutant's verbal eloquence reflects his efficient form of climbing. I have yet to see him grimace or even breath hard. It is almost frustrating to watch.
On the other side of the spectrum is Vasya. He would solo a few hundred feet if you dared him too. I have dared him and he has. Nothing is too far. Nothing is too small. Nothing is outside the realm of possibility. When he gets excited about a climb, or food, he talks with Dave Graham-like enthusiasm and energy, bouncing around, eye brows lifted; only he does not sound like a fourteen-year old going through puberty. His strict and undeviating work ethic not only contributes to his climbing success, but also his academic prowess. This type of energy, most like nitroglycerin, and brazen attitude is clearly apparent in his powerful, dynamic style on the rock.
The following offers an inside look into the personalities and minds of some of the country's strongest climbers.
On Vasya:
What do you think it is going to take to finish the most difficult and aesthetically pleasing route in the North East? Mental? Physical?
Well, first of all, I think it's not the MOST aesthetically
pleasing route (there are China Beach and Livin' Astro right next to
it), but as I always do, I'll start by taking a breath and saying
"Whooooh, I don't know, man..."
I mean I've worked it for the last 3 months, probably a total of 30
days or more (especially if you include the times I tried it last fall
as well)... And the way it started... I couldn't do all the moves -
in fact, I couldn't do the second crux for the first 5 days I spent
on it. When I finally stuck the second crux, I decided to commit
myself to this climb. So, at first, I needed the MENTAL dedication -
that's what kept me coming back there in the middle of the week in
between classes (even though it takes 3 hours to go there and
back)... Then, keeping Jaws in the back of my mind the whole time
helped me increase the PHYSICAL state I was in (climbing and working out every day)... I HAVE TO be in the best shape of my life in order
to do this route and still, it might need a little bit more... 10%
luck, 20% skill, 15% concentrated power of will.......
What is it that drives you so hard? What is inside that makes you such a determined and unstoppable climber?
Vasya about to explode on Stink Bug (V11) RMNP.
Well, I think what drives me is one of my worst qualities
actually... I'm very stubborn and I proved to be so to many people,
not listening to anyone, focused on whatever the hell I might be
thinking... Once I convince myself that something I'm going to like
and enjoy is possible, I become overly determined and focus
completely on that one thing... sometimes it takes a little bit of
self-persuading (with all the college work, research work, and
coaching too), but in the end if you can get out and commit to
something, it's doable. So, focus drove me...
Unstoppable? I wouldn't say I'm unstoppable... I don't live in a
confined world where only I exist... There are multiple climbers who
can be and are better climbers than me. What else drives me?
Anger? Not on this route... Almost every time I fall on Jaws, I'm
only psyched that I'm flailing on what's soon to be the hardest route
in Rumney. I get down, take a look around and just take in all that I
can. This doesn't mean that anger doesn't drive anything I do - it
does. I sometimes get on the wall all pissed off and that's the only
time my muscles will be tight enough to do some problem.
Love? This climb has definitely been about love... It's been in
particular about my love for this sport... climbing, being outside
with people who are there for the very same reasons... I really do
love it!
Do you follow any strict training regimen for the route? Diets?
Crushing another 5.14 at Logan Canyon, Utah
Diet... that's a good one... I eat whatever I want as long as Iclimb. And yes, it does include cake, cookies, and even donuts. I
don't have any strict training schedule, but whenever I'm free, I'll
go climb. I love surprise... call me at midnight, and I'm certain to
go climbing outside... (been tested!)
So you have been crushing at indoor comps. Do you think Brian Kim will ever stop you? What is it going to take to remain on top, champ?
Brian Kim always does so well at competition and I end up winning
only by one hold. He has beaten me before and I think he can do it
again. If I want to remain on top, I need to give up some of my work
I do, sleep more, and improve my technique to match that of Brian's.
But again, this is why comps are comps... They are very unpredictable
- it depends on what kind of problems they set for us - he's obviously
better on slabs and anything ballsy.
What is in the future of Vasya Vorotnikov? After Jaws?
The future, after Jaws I'll get drunk, stay drunk for a week,
celebrate with my one and only Jesse G and chill with Davey
Wetpants. Hopefully, catch up with school, travel, get a job, buy a
house, and live happily ever after! The typical end for any climber
finishing the fight of his life!
On Brian:
How do you manage to remain so calm and composed while climbing? Especially on a route like China Beach?
Alot of people always tell me how smooth I look when I climb; Even when I feel like I totally slobbed up a climb. I think that when I can stay calm and collected, it's much easier to concentrate. If I'm all worked up and have an aggressive mindset about doing a climb, it's hard to focus. So it really works for me on all types of climbs to just stay calm and enjoy the climbing.
Did you do any specific training for the climb?
I didn't do too much training particularly for China Beach. All the movements on it weren't too hard seperately. China Beach is an endurance climb, it's all about doing the whole thing in it's entirety. To help, I did try climbing more routes in a days session just to get my endurance up a little higher.
Another thing that helped me complete the climb was just trying the climb itself. Nothing helps more than knowing your opponent. In this case, I got to know the climb very well while trying it.
What is in the future for Brian Kim?
I just wish to keep climbing as much as I can. I really hope to go on a nice long trip to france for some sport climbing. And I really wish to take my trad to newer, higher levels. Hopefully I can make some time to get on some bigger walls.
She is always with you at Rumney. I like her, but what's with your little white doggie?
Pika is the "awesomest" dog ever. She's actually my sister's dog, but I've been taking care of her recently. Besides from being an ultimate babe-magnet, she loves being outside and hanging out at the crag with me.
You have been crushing at comps as well. How do you plan on taking Vasya, "the champ", out?
[Laughs] he's a tough cookie to beat! I'm not looking to beat him anytime soon. He's too strong. I might be able to beat him at a game of checkers or something. Seriously though, It's pretty funny how Vasya always manages to beat me at comps. It's good though since he always pushes me to climb harder. Competitions are sometimes about being lucky too, so I'm banking on being lucky one day.
David Wetmore's Ending Commentary:
There you have it. We look forward to seeing future sends and accomplishments at both ends and with the competition season just beginning to heat up, it will be no surprise to see some nail-biting, action packed battles between the two bloodthirsty competitors in some upcoming plastic pulling madness! Stay tuned for more.
