Pawtuckaway: Freezing Cold

ABS: Rhode Island Rock Gym

The competition down in Rhode Island last weekend was pretty stiff. Mike Foley, Vasya Vorotnikov, Josh Larson, and Brian Bittner- to name a few- showed up to crush. In the end, over 150 competitors spent the day inside thrashing themselves on plastic. Good times. I finished up 3rd just behind Mike Foley, who recently finished Livin' Astro (5.14c), as well as the boulder problem, Halcyon (V11/12) in just under 20 minutes or something crazy like that. That skinny little man is mutant strong right now! And of course, as usual, the crushing monster, Vasya, took first for 100 dollars.

Check out some photos...


There was much chalk in the air. White-lungs anyone?


Vasya destroying.



The setup to a difficult arete problem.


Finishing up as little Foley and Vorotnikov wait for me to fall. Just kiddin' fellas.

My Review of Anasazi Moccasym Rock Shoe

Originally submitted at Mountain Gear

The Anasazi Moccasym from Five Ten is the perfect second shoe for every climber, comfortable and built on the Anasazi last. These slippers have been used to onsight 5.14, but perform great on everything from boulder problems to multi-pitch sport routes.

• Their unlined leather upper will mold ...

Anasazi Moccasym Rock Shoe

Anasazi Moccasym: Pro Athlete Review

By Dave from Boston, MA on 11/3/2008

 

4out of 5

These shoes make the perfect companion for destroying yourself at the local gym. You'll feel like your slipping on a pair of your most comfy socks, except these socks are way stickier. Equipped with super-sensitive Stealth C4, they allow you to pull in incut holds and edges in the same way that you pull in holds with your fingers. As equally important, these shoes hold up to outdoor sessions--best on longer, more endurance oriented climbs--in the same way that they hold up to training on plastic. Best in comfort and quick-on-and-off ability.

(legalese)

Parallel Universe: Monsters of the Id

Once again the rock was about as sticky as sandpaper glued to the left cheek of your face and the trees looked like they were about to burst into flames (read: fall foliage). Mike Patz and I took our usual laps at Waimea and cruised on down to Monsters today. With just a few more routes left to do there, Parallel Universe (5.14a) is next on the list and today went well. With the help of Mike's "magic-trick" beta, I had a solid one-hang attempt at the end of the day. Hopefully, this week it will succumb to my flailing.

Mike Foley sent Livin' Astro (5.14c) a few days ago, along with Max Zolotukhin sending Supernova(5.14b). Congrats! Those guys are killin' it.

Tomorrow I'll be running around Pawtuckaway with the MetroRock climbing team. That is if I actually rouse from Halloween's debaucherous (a word?) inflictions. I will. The boulders need some pulling after a long night all alone. That statement could go in either direction. You get to pick!

Anyway, with some luck Pawtuckaway will be as friendly as it was last week when I sent Domepiece (V10), a powerful, one-move problem to a sloping lip of a top-out. Some fatty (me?) broke the only foot on it, so it may be harder now...like "V-a million" probably.

Next update, Parallel will be sent. That route is so much fun to climb on that it should almost be made illegal, but not really. Right. Ok, good talk.

Rumney: Monsters of the Id

Put a 55 degree day together at Rumney with a slight wind and nothing but blue skies, and what do you get? Sending! Today marked the best few hours of sport climbing for me this season. I warmed up at Waimea. My first climb was Waimea (5.10) and my second climb was TechnoSurfing (5.12b), one of my favorite lines on the wall because of the massive dyno at the top that you can either choose to by-pass or launch. I always launch and its more fun every time.

After taking my laps, we headed down to Monsters to seek and destroy. I sent Dr.No (5.13d) first try of the day! I am now the third person to have used the massive, chuck beta at the top--skipping the entire midsection with one big move to a sloper and subsequent bicycle down below to establish on the last few holds.

I rested about 30 minutes and pulled onto Feeding Frenzy (5.13d) and ended up sending first go! It was just one of those days where every hold feels amazing. Thanks temps!

Below is another picture of the crux on Feeding Frenzy.

Crush-It: MetroNorth

And so a long week begins of setting for the upcoming Crush-It Series Comp at MetroRock North. You all better be there this Saturday! Details to come.

Boston Rock Gym Plastic Pulling: ABS Comp

On Saturday, the day after a project send in Pawtuckaway, I was ready my first ABS comp of the year. Some very strong and talented climbers put in a lot of effort to set, Max and Gavin that I know of at least, so the comp ended up a success all around. I ended up in 1st for the Male: Open category just ahead of Brian Bittner, while Francesca Metcalf took 1st for Female: Open, one of the MetroRock team members that I have the opportunity to help train. She is ridiculously strong at just 15 and I can't wait to see what she pulls off this year.

The best part of the comp though, other than feeling the good ole' plastic bug creep back into my veins, was catching up with Brian Bittner. Turns out we are at the same point in our lives where we are basically doing just two things: climbing and working to climb. I told him my plans about climbing in Hueco for a month before the ABS National Bouldering Championships, and he is doing the exact same kind of timed training, but in Boone. Since we are both on the same page, I am just going to head down there in January, freeze my ass off, and hopefully get a little bit stronger before Nationals so that I don't get crushed by all the freaks out West. Ha!
I also told him about my plans to go to Vietnam/Thailand/Ha Long Bay next year and turns out he was thinking the same thing and knows the guy who heads the guiding association out there! So, all and all, I am more psyched then ever to train, since Brian is the man and it should be fun to work together on the same goals. This year is definitely shaping up to be interesting--granted I don't get injured like I always do. POSITIVE THOUGHTS! NO INJURIES! Pray to the rock gods. A'men.