Back in Action!

Six weeks after a lower abdomen hernia surgery, I'm back to training and climbing again. And holy moly, it feels good! Yesterday (Saturday, the 21st) was my first competition back at New York's largest bouldering series event: Feats of Strength.

The setting crew at The Cliffs in Valhalla did a stellar job, setting over 150 boulder problems for the day comp and 6 Finals for the second round. With over 200 competitors and spectators, the day comp--like always--was a battle. I ended up in the middle of the pack going into Finals with a tight line-up. Vasya Vorotnikov, Brian Kim, Rob D'Anastasio, and Andrew Kim, all of which were top place finishers at the 2010 ABS Nationals. The Finals round ended up being very close. I finished 4th, one hold shy of Rob D, while Vasya took the lead of the pack for the night. That Russian is monster. Anyway, psyched to be back at it--crossing my fingers right now for a few healthy comp months with my sights set on qualifying at the United Bouldering Championship Pro Tour (UBC) and having good outdoor season once the snows melts and temperatures get a bit warmer.

Sidenote:I have a lot of respect for each one of these guys. Vasya is a full-time student earning a PhD in Biomechanical Engineering who climbs about twice a week. Rob works his body into the ground day after day doing construction and demolition, still managing to train after long days of swinging a hammer and heavy lifting. Brian is recovering from a partial-tear in his shoulder and Andrew is only in high school--he's a youngster with an amazing ability to read and decipher quicker than most. All of these competitors still manage to maintain top form with the best in the country. Inspiring.























Trying hard to make the Finals round. Those blue, Team 5.10 shoes heel hook like no other. They do. Do it. DO IT.















Finals were a blast. The crowd was good and rowdy, while the problems were powerful and dynamic--just the way I like 'em.
















Focusing hard on Finals #1.
















Barely sticking the top out hold!















Brian Kim in the thick of it on Finals #2.















Vasya Vorotnikov and the classic "claw" on Finals #3.

Surgery: Inguinal Hernia

Yesterday, I was put under for the third time in my life. At 23, three surgeries already seems like a bit much, but they are just so much fun, so I figure why hold back? Basically, some of my intestines were coming through a hole in the stomach lining, causing me lots of pain. I've had the issue for a while, but only recently was it starting to be bothersome. Anyway, its all patched up now.

I have about 3-4 weeks of recovery time before I can start climbing again. All things considered, its not the worst timing. Come Spring, Rumney will be beautiful and I'll be re-psyched and fit? That's the plan. Plus, I used all of yesterday and today to update Dark Horse media. I put up a bunch of dope photos, thanks to Pat Bagley's eye, and edited a short highlight reel of the last DH comp, courtesy of Keith Share's camera skills. UC mag is giving us a page for a write-up with photos, RockandIce is including us in their email blast, and Climbing will have a blurb on their online news section.

So all of this downtime may not be so bad after all. I can catch up on a few other things, and come back refreshed. On the downside, I will miss the Boston Rock Gym's Heart of Steel, which is certainly going to be crazier than last year. Props to them for providing something new and creative. Watching from the side-lines is going to be less than what I wanted, but at least I can add to the yelling.

Dark Horse: Unite!

Behind the Scenes...

Photos: Pat Bagley






















The boys, Brian Rafferty MC Extraordinaire and Brett Australia, trying to relax before the big NUMBER TWO. This was taken at 2:30AM.






















Me making the final tweaks on Men's Finals #4 around 2:00AM before the comp a few hours later. Tight! Setting for each comp has been a blast. Psyched every single one.















Me chillen with my fellow crushing Captain Neil Mushaweh during the plastic pulling madness. We are both lit, thinking "This crowd is impeding our ability to get to the keg." Photo: Brian Bittner




Kyle McCabe and I getting dirty.

Dark Horse: December 12, 2009

Continuing the recent progression of world class bouldering competitions in the NorthEast, MetroRock just finished the second stop of its four comp Dark Horse Series. On December 12th, over 200 competitors and spectators showed up from all over the country to compete for the Dark Horse title. The top five competitors in each Open category advanced to finals in the evening to battle over the $1,100 cash purse.

Francesca Metcalf ended up demolishing the Female Open field by finishing all but the last Finals problem, controlling half-pad crimps and pinches on the 45-degree wall like they were jugs. For men, the entire comp came down to the very last try for Rob D’Anastasio. Vasya Vorotnikov put the pressure on Rob D by flashing Finals #1, 3, and 4. However, Rob D stepped up his game by flashing all four problems, finishing with a shoulder-wrenching gaston crux for that nights Dark Horse title.

The series culminates into a heart-stopping Championship round where ten of the country's most vicious, blood-thirsty competitors battle for the top spot on March 27, 2010. With $8,300 up for grabs—the combined total for all four comps—this series is packing some serious heat.

Whether you’re a top pro competitor or an enthusiastic beginnger, this series has what you need for a good time. Don’t miss the remaining two; February 17th and the Championship ($5,000 cash purse) March 27th, 2010.

Go to DarkHorseSeries.com for more info…

1. Rob D’Anastasio
2. Vasya Vorotnikov
3. Julian Bautista

1. Francesca Metcalf
2. Melissa Godowski
3. Emma Chilton



Photographer: Pat Bagley




































































































































































































Thanks to everyone who showed up to have some fun. Thanks for destroying our kegs. Thanks for screaming and clapping. Thanks for being really, really strong. Thanks for looking good in photos. Thanks for be excited.

As always, we look forward to giving you an even bigger show next time. TRAIN! TRAIN! TRAIN!

Dark Horse: #2

Thanks for everyone who came! The comp was ridiculous. Here's a photo of the Finals madness. Video, photo gallery, and full results up soon.



Rob D: First place Pro Male
Francesca Metalf: First place Pro Female

Dark Horse: #2 Under Way

For the past 48 hours, Kyle McCabe and I have been setting our butts off; taking naps here and there and pressing on for the 3am tweaks. I love this stuff, and luckily I get to be working alongside one of the most experienced and talented routesetters in the industry. Brian Rafferty is also killing it for us. He is the master of the green boobs.

The Finals event is looking to be much bigger than last time. Vasya Vorotnikov is flying in from Delaware. Julian Boutista is flying in from California. Jimmy Webb is flying in from...well...some place down south. Brian Kim, Ty Landman, and Phil Schaal are all rumored to show up. Are you f'ing kidding me? That's all I have to say about that.

For girls, I'm not so sure, but if the Finals event is anything like it was last month, we are in for a good show. Francesca Metcalf, Emma Chilton, Sydney McNair, Nina Williams...all the freaks!