Another Day at the Office

So, I gave myself one day of rest after the knee-popping incident because I have to set a bunch of routes for the Divisional Championships. To compensate for the knee, I've been awkwardly straining the ole' back, which has led to another problem--nothing a little ice and ibuprofen can't wipe away. Right.



Anyway, hopefully everyone's hard work pays off and we can put on a good comp before the kids shove off to Nationals. Can't wait to see all the young crushers kill it this weekend.

Pop Goes the Weas....My knee

This will be short because I'm pissed. Last night I was training with Vasya and Justin when my knee went snap, crackle, pop. One massive heel hook and kaboom, I was on the ground. A few years ago, I heard the same sound in my right knee and I was able to walk within a few days, so hopefully the injury is the same and nothing detached itself from my leg. Until then, I'll be hopping around on crutches that I've saved up from past occasions. Awesome.

Hotel: Toyota Tacoma

Where I'll be staying for the majority of the summer...




Psyched for the New River Gorge with Vasya in August. Even though plans seem to change within the climbing world quicker than I can fill up my tank with $60 bucks of gas due to the fact that climbers are more or less fickle people as I have come to learn from one particular joyous occasion, I am hoping this one sticks. Wow, that sounds bitter! Until then...RUMNEY, RUMNEY, RUMNEY.

Back from the Gramps and East Coast Crushing

So, it's been a while since I last updated, but for good reason. I was in Australia for about four weeks climbing in the Grampians and the week I set foot back in the States, I spent seven days at Carabiner's setting for USA climbing's regional championships by day and sleeping on their blue-matted floor by night.

Without a minute to waste, just one day after the comp, I was put under general anesthesia for a septoplasty surgery. Long story short, the surgeon took a hammer and chisel to my nose and fixed it so that I could breathe again. After three broken noses--a result of climbing accidents, one fight, and hockey--my already severely deviated septum had rendered me incapable of breathing out of both nostrils. At any rate, when I woke from surgery, I was puking up blood for hours while the nurse pumped my veins full of morphine and demoral.

The good news is that I am finally back into the swing of climbing. After two weeks of pain killers and rest, spending the day up at Rumney on Saturday felt like Christmas morning, save the fact that the forest was more humid than a drug-peddling jungle in Columbia and there was no Santa. Regardless of the wetness, my first climbing day back on the east coast was stellar. I worked on Supernova (5.14b), Dodge the Lemons (5.13d), and Boogie Man (5.13b), all of which felt really good. Very psyched. Hoping Dodge the Lemons and Boogie Man go down this weekend. Progress on Supernova please? One-hang? Maybe if I don't eat like a fat-ass this week.

Anyway, this whole route climbing kick has absolutely taken over my entire mindset, which is profound for me considering all I have ever thought about is competitions and boulders. At this point, nothing compares to rope climbing. I never thought I'd say that.























This is me looking goofy after accidentally punching myself in the face off an under-cling at the top of Supernova. Note: Don't punch yourself in the nose after a septoplasty--it hurts.















Working the bottom section off Supernova (5.14b)















Looks like I'm flailing on the final crux. Sick.

Rumney is being absolutely lit up these days with strong sport climbers. Keller Rinuado, recently graduated from Harvard and about two embark on a three month climbing trip through Europe, sent China Beach (5.14b) last week [LEFT]. The mutant also dispatched Parallel Universe (5.14a) within the next few days. He has only been climbing three years and is a route climbing assassin.

Here are some pictures from the Australia trip:






















Josh Grose on Wild Orchids at Mauline (5.13d)



They Aussies dubbed Mike Patz and I: TEAM AMERICA.



One of the blokes we met, Alister, jumping off the top of the Taipan Wall.



The only picture of me in Australia--dogging on Wild Orchids. Such an amazing route. After 2 days of effort, I almost sent, but fell off the final crux throw to a jug. Maybe next time? Naht.



They thought I looked like Big Foot. Ya, thanks.



Dave "Wenuts" AkA The Hulk according to the Aussies we stayed with.






















Mike Patz sending Breathing Gasoline (5.13d)













Same route.

Horse Pens: Random Shot

Skywalker. Photo by Kelly Brussell.

New England Bouldering Guidebook: New Edition

The new edition of the New England Bouldering guidebook is out. Pick one up and see what the local woods have to offer that you haven't seen yet. The fully updated color book provides a concise guide--lots of insider beta--to the region's best areas. Plus, there's a picture inside of Paul Robinson hiking Child of the Storm. That's nice. Click on the Cover or anything of the following scans for a better look.

And thanks to Tim Kemple and MetroRock, I got a chance to make an appearance here and there throughout the book.



Inside cover ad. Photo by Tim Kemple.






















A piece on my struggle for Halcyon and a quick view into the amazing climbing culture that has emerged from this small, compact region of the country; a group of climbers that are now shaping the future of our sport...I'm not included in this group, but I wrote about them!






















Tim Kemple's green shot of Halcyon.

This past month...

What have I been doing? Pulling on plastic five days a week, running in the morning, training private clients, coaching two teams, free-lance writing, and traveling. I've been at this game for over a decade, but only now do I feel my climbing starting to come together--even after suffering a massive mental setback earlier this month.

I was out in Boulder, Colorado, for ABS Nationals two weeks ago competing against about 100 top climbers in the country for 15 spots in Finals. I was sick the day of Qualifiers, but still feeling reasonably fit after just coming off a second-place finish at the Boston Rock Gym's Heart of Steel Comp. Long story short--I got destroyed. Even climbers like Matt Bosley and Steve Jeffrey were shut out. The climbers that made finals, for the most part, were full-time professionals, save Max Zolotkhin who climbed super-strong and ended up wearing a pink one-piece spandex unitard for Finals. Watching these elites move was like watching futuristic robots glide up the wall as if gravity were flipped in reverse.

This experience though has motivated myself and Vasya Vorotnikov, a 5.15 climber who also had problems at the comp, to train at a whole new level. We asked ourselves a key question: What exactly is holding us back? It's quite simple. Based on a sheer statistical level, our weight far exceeds that of the prototypical phenom. If you look at every male competitor in finals, no one weighed over 150 and most ranged from 130-140. I weigh about 168 and Vasya weighs about 165. We are fat-asses in comparison.

Without much fat too loose, we have begun running everyday, including the bike, eliptical, and whatever other spinning contraption you can find at the local gym. On top of that, I bought a weight-vest to wear every time I climb, only taking it off outdoors or at comps. For every pound we lose training and dieting, we add a pound in the vest. I have cheated a few times, not wearing the vest because my shoulder was bothering me, but other than that it seems to be working.





Outside of competing at Nationals and local level comps, I was recently promoted to Assistant Head Coach at MetroRock and have gained a few more private clients. This means more money, which means more climbing, and progression. After a long season indoors, the weather is starting to warm-up and I am looking forward to getting back outside towards Rumney, Great Barrington, and Farley this March.

Next week I am flying down to Horse Pens in Alabama with 6 kids from the team to boulder. Psyched! Hopefully, there will be lots of sending for all.

After what will hopefully be a good spring session this month, I will be jetting off to Australia for a month for some big wall climbing, bouldering, and sport in the Blue Mountains with Mike Patz. I'll be sure to update with photos and some writing while I'm there.