Saturday, January 31, 2009

Heart of Steel: Boston Rock Comp

Last Saturday night the Boston Rock Gym held one of the most innovative and futuristic comps of the year. Over 100 competitors showed up to battle for over $2,000. However, only top 3 open male and female climbers would make it to finals. After a 5-hour long redpoint battle, I squeezed into Finals with Vasya Vorotnikov and Jon Glassberg.

Check out Taylor De Lench's video here for full comp coverage...http://vimeo.com/2984985






















Working hard on Finals #2. Photo by Erik Delanoy















Green-back on Finals#1. Photo by Michael Hall

Unlike anything I have ever seen, dollar bills, ranging from 10's to 20's to 50's and all the way to 100, were taped to the wall inside of strategically placed boxes through each problem. Whoever climbed the highest and grabbed the most cash along the way would win whatever was left in the pot. Vasya ended up winning and taking home over $1,000.
















Vasya pleasing the crowd for the win. Photo by Michael Hall.






















Battling to make Finals. Photo by Michael Hall.
















Trying to make some money. Photo by Michael Hall.















Amidst a loud crowd on Finals #1. Photo by Erik Delanoy.














Fighting the pain--we had already climbing for 5 hours. Photo by Michael Hall.






















About to dyno 5 feet to the right. Photo by Erik Delanoy.

Final Standings:

Male
1) Vasya Vorotnikov
2) David Wetmore
3) Jon Glassberg

Female
1) Olivia Metcalf
2) Francesca Metcalf
3) Marah Bragdon

Thursday, January 22, 2009

Winter Months in New England

As temperatures rapidly descend into the low teens and snow banks grow higher than the cap on my newly pimped out truck (fully equipped with bed and storage space in the back), I cannot help but think of warmer days. The Mallorcan picture below--the one of me posing like Captain Dipshit with Vasya Vorotnikov entertains his best impression of Zoolander's blue-steel--reminds me of good times, great sends, and even better friends.



Fortunately, with the radical change of seasons comes an equally abundant onslaught of opportunity. As of right now, I am focused on training hard indoors, keeping my pulleys healthy, and competing. If gym rats are real, I suppose you could call me one. When I'm not in the gym training myself or setting for comps, I privately train other climbers and coach the MetroSouth and MetroNorth rock climbing teams of which 6 members have received invitation to ABS Nationals in Boulder, Colorado this February. With Nationals approaching, I have been training and competing as much as possible; however, I still can't seem to figure out how to avoid pizza and chocolate. Does anybody know how to lighten up without starving?!


Trying not to be so fat. [ABS Local]






















Preparing for launch. [ABS Regional]






















Flashing Finals #2. [ABS Regionals]


In the past month, I've either won or placed in the top three at over 4 local and regional ABS competitions. Training with the likes of Mike Foley, Max Zolotukhin, Neil Mushaweh, and Vasya Vorotnikov has been extremely helpful, since all these guys are freakishly strong in their own right. My goal for this competitive season is to make Finals for the ABS National Championship on February 14th; a lofty goal since the top finalists in the country have names like Daniel Woods and Paul Robinson--you know, the lil' guys. Hopefully I won't get my ass handed to me.

As of late, outdoor climbing has been put on hold. Neil and I have been up to Rumney a few times in the past few weeks even though the cold has been rough. Climbing hard in sub-teen temperatures is difficult, but possible. Here's the key. First, ignore the fact that the only other climber's around are kicking into ice and remind yourself that there might be lines in the Spring on climbs you grimace to look at now.

As you warm-up, your fingers will go completely numb. Once numb, stop climbing and lower-down. Wait for the blood to rush back into your finger tips--it will feel like you're digits are submerged in a rolling pot of boiling hot water--and then once the pain has passed you are officially ready to crank. The part that sucks harder than a mosquito at Pawtuckaway on a hot, summer's day is that every time you want to climb...everytime...you must go through this rite of passage. So after you belay for a few minutes, you're screwed. Not to worry though; bring a thermos of hot tea, maybe a little gin, some warm clothing, and an attitude more positive than a blind man in a circular room looking for a corner to sit in.

Bouldering is a bit easier to fight through, except make sure you clean the snow off the top holds or else you'll be beach-whaling into thigh deep snow drifts. I'll have pictures up of our next snowy sport-climbing adventure.

Upcoming Trips:
ABS Nationals; Boulder, Colorado: [Flying out February 13th for Qualifiers and hopefully Finals Saturday night]

Alabama; Horse Pens 40 :[Flying down with 6 MetroRock team members to guide a bouldering trip during the first week of March]

Red River Gorge : [Driving down with climbing partners for two weeks at the end of March]

Australia: [If I can somehow find the funds ($$), I'll be heading out for a sport/trad/bouldering month of April with Mike Patz]

Rodellar, Spain : [Flying out with Mike Foley at the beginning of August for a 2-month sport climbing tour..psyched]